It’s all about the women
Why I'm reusing so many glamour images from vintage magazines
After buying English and French vintage magazines from the 1940s and ‘50s, I became fascinated with the way images of women were used stereotypically, mostly to promote baby, home, or beauty products. I started to do a little research, starting with the magazines I had bought, and made notes in my sketchbook. This inevitably led me to creating collages, cutting out the women and displacing them into more powerful or ludicrous scenarios. Although cutting the magazines up initially felt wrong (I was spoiling a piece of history) but it got easier. And recycling these beautiful things always gives me a lot of pleasure.
In my piece Power Hour, I set myself a challenge to see how many pieces of art I could make entirely from one vintage magazine. I removed the women from fashion adverts and placed them together. Architectural backgrounds were created mainly using lipsticks and clothing. The finished image features independent and strong women rather than passive fashion models.
I almost called A Woman’s Work ‘The Percussionist’, because it looked as though the protagonist was playing lots of different drums all at once. It is supposed to represent a bit of that - juggling responsibilities/chores with a bit of crocodilian humour. I use images of lipsticks in my work to represent structure, architecture and power.
After the war there was an emphasis on companionate marriage, focusing on the equal needs of both husband and wife; and the nuclear family. Childcare facilities were non existent though, and there was limited help or support for working women. Magazines in the ‘50s influenced popular opinion, including attitudes to women’s employment. Feminism in this decade recognised and established women’s contributions to society, rather than celebrating equality. The concept of woman and child in the home was still prevalent over independence.
ELLE
Founded in France in 1945, one year after French women were given the vote. At the time the magazine was centred around fashion, beauty, style, and health. It had features more akin to newspaper articles, such as the role of women in national politics and the early French feminist movement. In 1967 it featured the work of Dior shortly after his debut show. By this time it had a huge audience, and Elle’s slogan became “Si Elle lit, elle lit Elle” (if she reads, she reads Elle). It was published in the USA and Britain amongst other countries from 1945.
My observations from French Elle, 1951: Letters of the heart, adverts (skin, clothes, shoes) doctor, the Edith Piaf story, kitchen appliances, great famous lovers, clothes/fashion, short stories, recipes, horoscope.
My observations from a French Elle, 1958: Adverts - baby, crotchet, celebrities, psycho test, short stories, clothes that are more comfortable & easy to wear, independent women know how to dress. Included a pull out liberty manual for young women & young girls - a survey on discovering yourself, are you free to change your fate?
WOMAN
Born in England in 1937, its target was 30-40 year old women. During WW2 it had fashion tips to help cope with clothes rationing, and recipes to use during food shortages. This magazine had a high speed print works.
My observations (1948 magazine): adverts (baby/medical/house cleaners/shoes), letters, short stories, quizes, holiday must-haves, recipes, advice page, horoscope. Red lipstick.
WOMAN’S OWN
My observations from a 1934 magazine: letters, short stories, adverts (food/babies), children’s clothes, doctor queries, housewife hints, sewing/embroidery, Paris feature, tarot reading, cookery/recipes, matching china, advice page.
VANITY FAIR, 1955
My observations: Fashion/suits, elegance. Women travelling, stepping off an aeroplane (suitcase around the World), casual dress in Scotland.
HEIRESS, 1951 (for older girls)
My observations: Friendship, stories, adverts for underwear, train to be a nurse. Articles about girls from different countries/cultures; Judy Garland’s troubles; a career in chiropody. A page ‘Francoise’, Bach, how to get on with people. Valentine cake recipe, books/records, Anna Pavlova.
References / reading with links
Britannica article about the history of publishing women’s magazines
Wikipedia article about Elle
Charmont article about Elle
Gender, work and education in 1950s Britain
Women's Periodicals and Print Culture in Britain, 1940s-2000s